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Dior Spring 2013: A Liberating Collection

Posted on 2nd October 2012 | Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013

In the funny old world of fashion fate, it was Raf Simons’ showing of his first ready-to-wear collection for Dior, not Hedi Slimane’s new Saint Laurent Paris, that was THE big story of Paris Fashion Week.

The former designer of Jil Sander took over the mega-watt label as Creative Director in April and had already the won the crowd with the brand’s couture line for Fall.  The fashion pack was out in full force to do it again.   Needless to say, he failed to disappoint!

Simons is known for his minimalistic designs and background in menswear, and this season he appeared to take Yves Saint Laurents Le Smoking tuxedos and running with them. The collection started with a trail of models dressed in exquisitely tailored black suits and scarves, beautified by stunning jewel-encrusted eye makeup, adding a feminine touch to the menswear-inspired collection.

The collection quickly moved on to jacket-dresses (as Anna Dello Russo loves!) which varied in style and length -- some elegantly cut into strapless numbers, others with the sleeves removed, and some lengthened just enough to pass for a skirt.

But not everything in the show was about masculine tailoring. An ensemble of smoking hot 50s looks ensued, presenting mini ball gowns using puff sheers and metallics in a palette of Spring brights, worn over black shorts, and with the odd jacket-dress thrown in to remind us of the Spring 2013 trend; some with shimmering holographic panel details. Meanwhile, sky high hemlines remained a central theme of the set.

More than minimalism: Simons shows us his romantic color-blocking collection

The show notes read: "He embraced the feminine, the complex and the emotional; an idea of freedom and what had gone before."

In keeping with the classic Dior aesthetic, our eyes were spoiled with an array of shiny puffball skirts cleverly juxtaposed with simply tailored upper wear, and Simons succeeded to hit a number of trend notes with this collection -- stripes, veils, and tangerine tones ruled the roost on the catwalk.

Meanwhile, although it was hard to move our eyes away from the catwalk, FashionTV couldn’t help but notice some uber famous names (naturally), peppering the front-row. Let’s just throw some out there: Kanye West was spotted donning an rather uncool solemn expression sat next to American beauty, Olivia Palermo, who turned up to show support for the Simons show. Other fashion favs include actresses Melanie Laurent and Leelee Sobieski who were visions of minimalist elegance on the front row, and supermodel Eva Herzigova was amongst the fashion pack turnout. Successes all around Mr Simons!

How did you find Raf Simons first ready-to-wear collection for Dior?



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