Fetish in the fashion of Louis Vuitton
Paris Fashion Week saved the best for last as the curtains of this fashion season dropped on the presentation of Louis Vuitton Women’s Wear Fall/Winter Season 2011-2012.
The collection revolved around the concept of fetish which was rolled up and down and was felt not not only in the clothes shown, but also in the ambiance and the setting.
Carré du Louvre was purposely accessorized for this event by installing a gigantic black tent circled by coal black balloons forcing the passersby to look up in an attempt to visually cover its size. The fetish idea welcomed the guests from the very entrance where maids in scant attire were fictitiously polishing the stairs with a devotion seen only in role performances.
The inside of the tent had been so arranged to look like a sumptuous hotel lobby whose stars might be counted using more than the fingers of one hand. The center was occupied by a massive elevator having the LV logo inscribed on it, its doors opening to let the models out. The designer of the LV fashion house used the idea of the elevator for both aesthetic and functional purposes. In an interview taken by Kathie Grand (the editor of Love magazine), he explained his choice owing to the substantially high heels of the shoes which could have spoiled the swaying défilé of his models.
The collection exhibited several facets of certain cliché-characters. One after the other entered the catwalk harsh teachers, sexy maids or unbending people (women) of the law. The collection was meant to be pretty conservative. The emphasis was laid on the torso that was covered in all outfits, the legs being the anatomical part of the body left bare and prey to (pre)judgments. We were shown gowns sobered down by the neck cut, letting round-edged white collars appear immediately from under it, but also impressive fur coats, reminiscent of the 40’s, on emerald green or deep black, waist tight by latex shiny corsets.
Precious handcuffs cast in 18 carat gold or diamond encrusted, and army caps bearing the famous LV monogram – which, attached to any product, instantly spells successful sales - were all around. What is for sure is that the pieces to be turned into a real buying fetish are the bags and the shoes. As a revelation of the Louis Vuitton look, Marc Jacobs offered a reinterpretation of the famous model of “The Lock-it” bag coming in different textures from python and crocodile skin to rubberized leather.
The most in vogue supermodels marched on the catwalk together with Isabeli Fontana, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. In an idle puffing of a cigarette, the last-named created quite a stir, gathering rounds of applause at the end of the presentation.
Natalia Vodianova, another famous model, joined the procession of the stars, but from the audience stalls: “This is a very powerful and clearly sexy collection. Very chic, very Marc. I think the pieces of this season will be collector’s edition,” Vodianova said to me when the show was over.
It was not only the catwalk which oozed with celebs. The first row also proved to be a generous host for Daisy Lowe, Leigh Lezark and many other well-known LV gourmands.
Astonishing, fabulous, luxuriant were the describing epithets assigned to the collection by Juliana Ramirez (wife of Dominican-American professional baseball player, Manuel Ramirez), Fan Bingbing (Chinese actress and singer) and Tülin Şahin (TV presenter and former supermodel).
All three graces confessed to me they were Marc Jacobs’s hopeless admirers. And they were not the only ones.
Judging it by the looks of the Asian attendees, Louis Vuitton will definitely score a new financial boom not only on their continent, but worldwide too.